Self Taught Celebrity Make-Up Artist
Ex Mac Cosmetics Artist

Cosmetic Tattoo Consultant
Based In Manchester in the UK

Tuesday 3 February 2015

Conceal & Correct


I've had a few requests for a concealer post so here it is. 

First things first you need to be very aware of colour and correction. 

If you have loads of blue under your eyes and put a concealer on that matches your skin tone or worse lighter to highlight you are going to achieve very little other than look somewhat grey on that area. 

Under your eyes you need to be looking for blue and purple. These can be easily confused and you might find you need a bit of trial and error before you get it right.

Blue is corrected with Orange/Peach
Purple is corrected with Yellow. 

This is basic colour theory so incase if you forget save a colour wheel in your phone I will attach a photo. 

An affordable colour corrector is the Morphe brushes palette which has a range of shades of concealer and coloured correctors. It's around £10. 

Colours to be aware of on the face is Red/Pink and Yellow. 
Red and Pink is corrected with green and yellow
Yellow sallow skin is corrected with purple

(I know you might be thinking how does yellow correct both purple and pink? Yellow is directly opposite from purple of the colour wheel so cancels it out. But equally pink is a warm colour and yellow is cool so yellow cancels the pink out that way too if the pink isn't too strong) 

Pink you will see a lot in Caucasian skin 
Yellow you will see more in asian skins

It's really important that you colour correct a face before concealing as your makeup just won't look as good without it. 

My fave concealers: 

Full coverage: 

Anastasia Beverly Hills Concealer is great.

Medium coverage: 

Nars creamy concealer I love. It's good coverage and comes with a stick to apply on yourself, better for dry skins. 

In terms of powdering concealers under your eyes it just depends on your skin. If you have dry skin or lines then no don't. If you don't and want to seal under your eyes then use something with a natural finish or that is made for dry skin or highlighting under the eyes.

When colour correcting on the face I would recommend correcting the colour, apply foundation, then conceal more if needed in own skin tone. Powder in between foundation and concealer or it won't stick the same. Then once happy powder again and then do your contour and highlight. 

Tools for concealing 

Beauty blenders are essential. Use them wet NOT dry or they absorb the product and that's not what you want. You want to blend the seams and the product. 

Another thing I want to add. If you are purchasing the products that are correct for your skin and it's still not looking how you want I recommend booking a lesson either with myself if you are local or someone reputable closer to home. 9 times out of 10 people have all the best products and it's the application they can't get right. Spending 1 on 1 time with a REAL professional that has knowledge is the best thing you can do. Rather than keep spending on more products when the ones you have are probably fine and then the artist can recommend genuinely what you need. Don't go to a mac counter or any other makeup counter as they are sales targeted and just want your money. 

Olivia x